Vintage Snare Drums online Ludwig, Slingerland, Leedy, Camco, Gretsch, Sonor

This is a step by step process for refinishing a snare drum with Precision Drum Recovering Materials. First decide on the finish you want for your drum. Take a look at the Precision Drum web site for the available options. The silver sparkle finish was picked because it was available when the drum was made and it is a popular finish that matches any drum set.

This drum is a 8 X 14 Slingerland Magnum Snare with 4 vent holes, 12 lugs and a Slap Shot Strainer System. The drum when I bought it for $58.00 was spray painted aqua and in fairly good condition over all. Once I decided on the material and ordered it from Precision Drum, I followed the handy direction sheet step by step.

provided by VSD for Precision Drum

Step 1

Before beginning the recovering process, read the entire instruction booklet that was included with your recovering kit. If you do not understand any of the instruction steps, call or e-mail Precision Drum Company for assistance. It is important that you understand all of the instructions before you begin.

Step 2 (Getting the supplies together)

Standard Tools			Extra Tools
	1. The Finish 2. Standard Drill 3. Screwdrivers 4. Wrench 5. Drill Bits 6. File 7. Scissors 8. 3m Adhesive 9. Grommet 10. Ball Bearing (for grommet) or ball peen hammer.	1. Hammer 2. Palm Sander & Paper 3. Block of Wood 4. Scraper 5. Utility Knife 6. Square

Step 3

The Drum	Remove the Hardware
			Remove all of the hardware from the shell and store it in Zip Loc bags. This would be a good time to clean the hardware and pack the lug casing spring with felt.

Step 3A (Removing the badge and grommet)

Dremmel Tool	Small File	Pliers	Punch
Use a Dremmel Tool with a cut off wheel. Carefully cut the grommet from the inside and then you can easily bend the grommet inward. Cut it in 4 spots.	By taking a small file you can carefully file the grommet down and it will then be easily removed with a pliers.	Use a sharp screwdriver and carefully peel the grommet around the edge and then us a pliers to bend it in and pull it out from the outside.	Insert a tapered punch from the inside, and lightly tap with a small hammer. Brace the outside of the shell around the badge

Step 4 (Removing old finish painted)

Bare Shell	Remove the finish
			This drum was painted so you could either use paint stripper like Zip Strip or sand the shell. make sure it is smooth. Clean the shell so it is dust free when you are done.

Step 4A (Removing old finish wrap)

Use a scraper	Remove the old wrap
			*Caution: Be careful when using a heat gun, old drum finishes will catch on fire.

Use a scraper on the seam and see if the finish lifts easily, continue unless you have problems. You can also very carefully use a heat gun* to remove the finish. Clean any glue residue with an adhesive remover or sand the shell.

Step 5 (Marking shell and wrap for step 7)

Test the wrap and mark the shell	Use tape to hold the finish in place.
		The important part here is to have the finish that over laps on the outside, to end up on a lug line. This way the majority of the seam is under a lug. Once the wrap is lined up mark the shell and wrap so that it will line up later.	You also need to check the under wrap at the seam point so it is less then 2 inches. Put a line directly at the over wrap point and then measure to the end.

Step 5A (Trim excess overlap)

Leave if under 2"	You will have to measure and cut if it is over 2"
			Use a square so you get an even line. Cut with the scissors.

Step 6 (Applying the 3m adhesive)

Apply 3M Adhesive	Apply glue to the entire outside shell surface, entire wrap back surface, and 2" (or less) overlap portion of finish side of wrap"		*PEEL PROTECTIVE LAYER BACK 2" or less from edge

*Make sure when you apply the adhesive on the exterior part of the finish that you peel back the clear protective plastic layer. Many finishes come with this protective layer. The glue is easy to remove by rubbing your finger on the excess. Better to go over then under at this point. The adhesive must come in contact with adhesive and this is how it works. Make sure also that the glue is applied along the edges of the finish and the edge of the shell. Take your time and get good coverage. This is very important.

Step 7 (Applying the finish to the shell)

Use a wall as your guide
	1. Place the finish against the wall 2. Lower shell while against the wall 3. Remember those pencil marks? 4. Line up those marks 5. Slowly apply the finish around the shell. Make sure the side with the glue on the sparkle side goes down first so the finish goes over it.	No turning back once they contact each other!

Step 8 (Pressing the finish down)

Use a cloth to press down and help the bond. You can also use a small roller if you have one.	Finished shell!

Step 9 and 10 (Cutting the extra wrap and filing the finish)

Cutting the extra wrap		Detail Filing
	Use a very sharp knife when you cut the overhang of finish. I found it helpful to cut the wrap on a slight angle. This will help when it comes time to file the edge to match the contour of the shell. Take your time!		Work your way around the shell on a slight angle to finish off the edge. Take your time!

Step 11 (Drilling the holes)

Drilling the holes		Finished drilled shell
	Use the block of wood and while applying pressure drill the holes from the inside. Use a drill bit that fits the hole as close as possible without drilling the hole larger.		Take your time and let the drill do the work. Do not force it and you will have a shell that looks like this. Excellent!

Step 12 (Putting the badge and grommet back on the shell)

When using any of these methods you are securing the badge to the drum. None of them will give you a factory bend. This is done with a large machine. It all depends what you are going for and how it will turn out. Precision Drum recommends the steel ball or ball peen hammer method. I have seen tools that will press the grommet down and some people use a bolt with a washer and nut and tighten the badge with this method.

Glue	Steel Ball	Peen Hammer
	.
Use a good epoxy to hold the grommet in place.	Place the drum on a wood block with the outside of the grommet down. On the inside of the shell put the steel ball on the grommet and hit it with a hammer. This will flare the grommet towards the shell	Place the drum on a wood block with the outside of the grommet down. On the inside of the shell put the peen hammer over the grommet and hit it with another hammer. This will flare the grommet towards the shell.

Lug Casing with Seam		Finished Drum
	The seam lines up perfectly behind the lug.		Wow!

This web site is dedicated to the history of vintage drums. Slingerland Drum History, Ludwig Drum History, Rogers Drum History, Leedy Drum History, Gretsch Drum History, Fibes Drum History, Camco Drum History, Premier Drum History, Tama Drum History, Yamaha Drum History, Sonor Drum History, Royal Drum History. There are sections for Serial Numbers, Cleaning Vintage Drums, Vintage Snare Drum Catalog Pages, Vintage Drum Set Catalog Pages, Drum Badges, Drum Finishes, Drum Hardware.

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